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Cat Scratching Dental
Rawhide Chews Flea Control
Litter Hot Cars
Pet Safe Plants
Do You Have a Senior Dog?
YES - if your dog is over 7 years of age (9 years for small breeds). A dog is considered Senior once it reaches 7 (remember, in dog years that's 49!).
As a dog's body ages, the nutritional needs change. Some of the common changes in older dogs include:
Reduced Activity Levels - as pets slow down and their activity levels decrease, the risk of weight gain increases. Senior pet foods are formulated with a lower fat level to help prevent excessive weight gain.
Weaker Digestive System - the ability of a senior pet to digest its food decreases as it ages and the body systems begin to slow. Super premium senior formulas all include vitamins and minerals to help make their formulas more digestible. Prebiotics added to Innova & Eagle Senior formulas introduce beneficial bacteria into the digestive tract to help break down and absorb the nutrients in the food.
Weaker Immune System - antioxidant ingredients in senior formulas help to boost the aging immune system to keep the aging body healthier.
Skin & Coat Dryness - aging pets tend to have drier skin and coat as evidenced by "dandruff" and shedding. Each of the super premium foods add a specific blend of omega 3 & 6 fatty acids which condition the skin and coat to eliminate dryness and shedding problems.
Brain Aging - as the brain ages it deteriorates and causes behavioral changes such as house soiling, disorientation, lack of enthusiasm, new sleep patterns, etc. The addition of antioxidant ingredients neutralize "free radicals" which help slow down the brain aging process to help keep your dog's brain sharp.
Hip & Joint Deterioration - older dogs experience stiff joints, arthritis and joint problems as they age. A common problem is caused by hip dysplasia, the misalignment of a dogs hips that will ultimately cause the joints to break down. Super premium Senior dog food formulas include levels of Glucosamine and Chondroitin Sulfate to maintain healthy joints and overall mobility. These two supplements work together to stimulate rebuilding the joint cartilage matrix which contributes to keeping senior dogs active.
Pet Food Warehouse carries a large selection of affordable Senior dog formulas. If you have a Senior dog, please stop by and pick up a bag today! Your dog will thank you!
Switching Pet Food
General Information
Pets need different formula pet food for different ages, activity levels or other health related concerns based on each individual pet's health.
When selecting a puppy or kitten food, get the same brand of food the breeder was feeding to begin with to avoid stress during transition to the new household. Continue feeding the breeder's brand of food for two weeks before attempting a switch. In dogs, be aware that large/giant breeds need specific types of food to help prevent problems associated with growth. You may have to put the puppy on a premium adult food while still young. Ask pet food professionals and other knowledgeable individuals and make up your own mind about what is the best to feed.
As your pet grows he will need adult food or perhaps may have a special need such as hairball relief, formulas for sensitive stomachs or have an allergy that requires a food with a limited ingredient panel, like California Natural. Monitor your pet's health with your veterinarian to determine what is best for your pet and when it is appropriate to switch foods.
Food Switching Rule of Thumb
Combining the old food with the new food in a slow transition will lessen the impact on your pet's digestive system, especially if you are switching from a grocery to a premium or from a premium to a super premium.
Day 1 - 3: 75% old food, 25% new food
Day 4 - 6: 50% old food, 50% new food
Day 7 - 9: 25% old food, 75% new food
Day 10: 100% new food
Note: One handful of treats equals roughly one cup of food!
Cat Scratching
Scratching posts may be the number one peacemakers between cats and their owners. Cats are nearly perfect indoor pets, but they have a definite need to scratch. Before you relegate your cat outside or give it away, satisfy your cat's urge to scratch with a scratching post and restore harmony in your home.
Why Cats Scratch
Retractable claws are a physical phenomenon that sets cats apart from the rest of the animal kingdom. In the cat family, only cheetahs cannot retract their claws. Those little velvet paws that tenderly pat their owner's cheek contain weapons as sharp as razors when unsheathed.
The most attractive item a cat can scratch is sisal rope, followed by real wood and then carpeting. The textures of these items are almost irresistible scratching surfaces to some cats. Sisal rope is very similar to wicker, so if you own any wicker products you'll know how much cats love scratching them. Luckily, we sell a large selection of scratching accessories, including sisal rope.
When a cat scratches furniture, it is commonly thought to be sharpening its claws. Not so. Claws grow in layers; scratching is necessary to remove the old, flaky, beat-up top layer of the claw material to reveal the new, smooth claw underneath. This is why rough, tough scratching post coverings are preferred. A soft scratching post material must be annoying to a cat as a smooth nail file is to a human.
Just like human fingernails, claws grow all the time, so regular feline manicures should be a part of every cat owner's routine. Trimmed claws are less likely to snag fabric and inadvertently scratch people.
Trimming a cat's claw is much easier if the cat has been accustomed to regular manicures since kittenhood, but most owners still have a good chance of success even with an adult cat, if they follow this simple formula: To get a cat used to having its paw handled, gently hold and massage each paw for a short time on a regular basis. Before clipping, carefully study its toes and paws, the pink area in a cat's claw is living nail, called the "quick," which carries the blood supply and should not be cut. The white area that forms the sharp, pointed nail tip is the part that needs trimming. Just take off the tip of the claw, leaving a little white nail on the end to protect the pink portion. If a cat's claws are cut too closely they could bleed and will be tender and painful.
Scratching Post Training Tips
To train a cat to use a scratching post, three cardinal rules must be observed. If pet owners follow them consistently, they should have minimal trouble weaning their cat from their furniture to its own.
1) Never punish or frighten a cat while it is on its post or tree. This is the cat's place, and if it has a bad experience while there, the chances of getting the cat to use the post again may be slim to none.
2) If the cat is caught scratching the furniture, drapes or carpet, sternly say "no" and place the cat on its post. Generously praise the cat when it uses the post. 3) Be patient. A cat may need some time to get used to the idea and it may need encouragement. You can show it how to use the post by placing its front paws against the post and moving them up and down or by scratching the post yourself. The noise will attract the cat's attention, and it should soon mimic your actions. If the cat seems to need further encouragement, rub the post with catnip (especially if the manufacturer has not treated the post). If you still have trouble getting the cat to use the post, rub the post with a piece of your clothing or bedding. Your smell will often attract your cat to the chosen spot or item.
Dental
The Importance of Preventive Dental Care in Pets
A preventive dental program, including regular check-ups and home care, can prevent emergency dental problems for pets. Some veterinary statistics suggest that nearly 85% of all dogs and cats older than four years have some form of dental disease. Your pet depends on you to provide home dental care and regular professional examinations.
Common signs are dark deposits on the teeth, bad breath, a change in appetite, bloody gums, drainage inside the mouth or under the jaw, frequent sneezing, watery or bloody nasal discharge or excessive salivation. Also, if a pet has an abscessed tooth, the owner may notice swelling around the face.
Have the pet's teeth checked at their first vaccination visit so any dental problems can be taken care of right away and continue with regular dental checkups. If tartar or plaque is forming, the teeth should be cleaned. Some animals need to have their teeth cleaned frequently, and some may not need it as often. Similar to human dentistry, owners should regularly brush their pets' teeth between checkups.
Most small animal veterinarians will do routine cleaning and extraction, if necessary. Depending upon the severity of the problem, owners may have to take their pets to a specialist. Veterinarians can perform oral examinations when the animal is awake, but cleaning or extraction requires general anesthesia.
Home Dental Care Options for Your Pet
Weekly Tooth Brushing
This is the very best home dental care you can provide for your pet. Tooth brushing removes plaque above and below the gumline and slows the accumulation of tartar while helping prevent gum and bone infections. Use a toothbrush and toothpaste intended for pets. Pet toothbrushes are soft and shaped to fit your pet's mouth and teeth. Pet toothpastes are made to be swallowed, unlike toothpastes for people. This is important because your pet cannot "rinse and spit." Pet toothpastes also have flavors that appeal to dogs and cats and are usually packaged with an instructional booklet to help you get started. Take your time, be patient, and always use positive reinforcement (praise and rewards). From your pet's perspective, tooth brushing means attention from you, tasty toothpaste on a soft brush, and a reward afterward.
Chew Toys
Chew toys provide some benefit by partially removing plaque and tartar above the gumline. Always watch your dog when he or she has a chew toy, to avoid potential problems if the toy comes apart. Rawhide strips, flexible plastic polymer toys and firm rubber toys are safe for most dogs with supervision. A good rule of thumb is that a big piece of anything should never be swallowed by your dog.
Breath Fresheners
The most common cause of bad breath in pets is a dental infection. If your pet's bad breath is due to a dental infection, the breath will improve only when the infection is treated. However, sometimes temporary bad breath can be caused by digestive odors or dietary indiscretions (your pet ate something offensive). In these situations, a breath treat can control the problem. If your pet has persistent bad breath, consult your veterinarian promptly.
Diet
Plaque is composed of hard food debris and bacteria, combined with proteins and calcium salts from the saliva it hardens to form into tartar or calculus. Pets fed a diet high in carbohydrates (like most grocery store brands) are more likely to develop plaque, as carbohydrates become simple sugars which cause plaque. Although canned food is nutritious since the meat is ground, minimal chewing is necessary-- the less chewing the more plaque. This does not mean that all gum disease is caused by feeding high carbohydrate, soft foods or that pets should not be fed soft food. Dry pet food provides food nutrition and assists in the removal of plaque by the mechanical action needed to chew it. A pet's gums and teeth tend to be healthier when the pets eat some dry food.
Dental Checkups
Home dental care and regular professional examinations help protect your pet's health. Most pets need a dental exam every six months. Ask your veterinarian how often your pet needs a dental exam. Even if your pet appears normal, provide regular professional examinations because pets can effectively hide severe dental problems.
Cleaning Your Pet's Teeth
Learning the proper techniques of brushing and brushing the teeth regularly, beginning when the pet is young, will help prevent dental problems down the road. Although puppies or kittens are open to new experiences and are more likely to accept brushing than older pets, try the following steps on adult dogs and cats as well.
Try to introduce a pet to brushing, rub its mouth and gums for a few days. After it becomes accustomed to this, put a small amount of pet-specific toothpaste on your finger when you rub the mouth and gums. The next step is to use a soft-sided toothbrush, specifically designed for pets. Brush the teeth and gums gently. A circular motion is most effective, but brushing back and forth may be easier.
Dogs or cats should have their teeth brushed at least once a day. This is especially important for older dogs or cats, which are more likely to have plaque buildup. Be sure to use a toothpaste made for dogs or cats, because toothpastes for humans contain ingredients that can upset the dog or cat's stomach.
If your dog or cat struggles when having its teeth brushed, try wrapping it in a large towel to restrain it. Be as gentle as possible and follow up the brushing with praise and play, so the dog or cat associates the experience with something positive.
Rawhide Chews
About Rawhide
For centuries wild canines and their predecessors chewed on the hides of their hoofed prey. Chewing the tough hide provided cleaning action for teeth, exercise for gums, and a source of sport for the young. Only since 1959 have we recognized the dog's natural desire to chew animal skin and its benefit to domestic dogs.
What is Rawhide?
Rawhide is the inner layer of the hide of any cleft-hoofed bovine livestock. Beef hide is premium rawhide made from cows raised for consumption. American beef hide is derived from cows within U.S. borders.
What Makes it so Tough?
Collagen fibers link to make the animal's hide tough yet flexible. Human skin has the same basic structure but is much thinner.
What is it Made From?
The animal's skin is split into inner and outer layers. The tough outer layer is used for leather shoes, garments and upholstery while the softer inner layer is cut and formed into different shapes for dog chews.
Will My Dog Chew Such a Hard Rawhide?
When collagen in the skin dries out, it becomes stiff. As your dog chews, the saliva moistens and softens the rawhide.
Which Dogs Should Not Have Chews?
If your dog has gastrointestinal disease or is eating a therapeutic diet, you should seek a veterinarian's approval before feeding chews. Dogs with beef allergies or that consistently swallow bones whole should probably not receive chews.
How Often Should I Feed Chews?
Rawhide is not a food, but a safe, chewable toy. It is high in protein, low in fat, and has fewer calories per ounce than a typical dog biscuit. An hour of chewing daily is a good rule of thumb for feeding chews. Always supervise your dog while he is chewing his rawhide.
Choosing the Right Rawhide
Your dog's preference will vary with different beef hide shapes. Fortunately, chews come in every size and shape imaginable. It is important that the chew be large enough, and thick enough that your dog cannot easily chew up and swallow a large piece or the whole chew. Dogs should be supervised with their chews to monitor for ingestion of large chunks. Rawhide that requires more than seven days to chew should be replaced due to dirt and bacteria build-up.
What Type of Rawhide is Best for My Dog?
Ground rawhide chews -- These chews come in all shapes and sizes and consist of ground rawhide held together with binder and are best for choosy dogs or dogs with sensitive mouths.
American Beef Hide Chews -- Made from U.S. feeder cattle, it is the premium chew because of its consistency, softness and taste. These are best for most healthy dogs.
Pressed Rawhide Chews -- Made from layers of skin pressed together by machine, it is very hard and are best for very aggressive chewers.
How Can Rawhide Chews Help My Dog?
Dental Benefits:
Infections, kidney and heart disease can result when poor dental health gives bacteria a channel to enter your dog's body. Mineralized plaque forms a hard deposit on the tooth surface called "calculus." Excess acid damages the gums resulting in gingivitis. As rawhide is chewed and moistened, it wraps around the teeth and rubs off plaque and calculi.
Cleaner Teeth Means Fresher Breath!
Most bad breath in dogs is caused by gum disease. Inflamed gums, plaque and calculus harbor the bacteria that creates mouth odor. Even young dogs need dental care-- 85% of dogs two years old or more have some periodontal disease. As your veterinarian about a program to keep your dog's teeth clean.
Veterinarian's Role in Dental Health
Tooth care is crucial to your dog's health. Your dog's teeth should be examined by a veterinarian yearly, and cleaned and polished as needed. Veterinarians recommend daily brushing to prevent plaque buildup. Use beef hide chews daily to supplement brushing.
Behavior Benefits:
All dogs have an inherent desire to chew, especially puppies. Aberrant chewing can be a sign of boredom, lack of exercise, or a vitamin deficiency, but is most often a normal desire to chew. This drive can exhibit itself on furniture and clothing items. Beef hide offers dogs a safe chewing outlet.
Flea Control
The Best Time for Flea Control is Before You See The Fleas.
It Takes Much Less Effort to Prevent a Flea Infestation Than It Does to Get Rid of One.
Flea Facts:
Fleas are small wingless insects that live on mammals and birds and suck blood for food.
They lay their eggs in bedding, carpet or other areas.
The hatched larvae crawl into bedding and cracks in the floor.
A full life cycle takes about two to three weeks to develop through four life stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult.
They can be controlled at every stage except the pupa when they are virtually indestructible.
Fleas prefer animals with thick coats, but can live on various animals including humans, moving from the body of one host to another.
In 30 days 10 female fleas can produce 4,000 new fleas. In turn, assuming that half are females, 4,000 can produce 800,000 fleas in 30 days.
Fleas can remain frozen for a year and then revive.
How Do I Know if My Pet Has Fleas?
You can tell if your pets have fleas if they're excessively scratching, if you see flea "dirt" on your pet (looks like black pepper on your pet's skin), or if you actually see flea excrement. Use a flea comb regularly to check for fleas.
Why Should I Treat for Fleas?
Fleas are more than just a nuisance. Fleas can cause your pets serious medical problems. Many dogs and cats are highly sensitive to flea bites and may develop an allergic reaction. Fleas also may transmit tapeworms and cause infested animals anemia (severe blood loss) not to mention great pain and misery. Once infested, products must be used to exterminate the existing flea population. All effected areas must be treated including the pet bedding, pet's outside stomping grounds and inside the house as well as the pet. Failure to treat all areas will probably mean some fleas will survive and continue to reproduce, re-infesting the treated areas.
How Do I Get Rid of Fleas?
There are 3 steps to complete flea control:
1) Home Control. Foggers are easy to use and effective to treat large areas of your home when you have an infestation. Carpet sprays and powders reach underneath other furniture not treated by the fogger.
2) Pet Control. Use a shampoo that is made specifically for flea control. All pets in the household should be treated for fleas simultaneously.
3) Ongoing Maintenance. Use a flea collar or topical flea product to prevent fleas from using you pet as a host.
How Do I Prevent Fleas?
Begin a topical regiment in early spring. Monthly topical flea treatments are easy to use and effective at killing and repelling fleas, ticks and mosquitoes which trouble pets during warm summer months.
Natural Solutions for Flea Control
Brewer's Yeast: a dietary supplement believed to repel fleas.
d-limonene: made from citrus peel, it's touted as effective and long-lasting.
Garlic: used in many dietary supplements, it is believed to kill fleas.
Melaleuca Oil: derived from the Australian tea tree.
Pennyroyal Oil: used in shampoos, powders, and as an oil, pennyroyal is a flea repellent and killer from the leaves and flowers of mint plants.
Rotenone: natural insecticide derived from the rotan derris plant.
Thiamine (B1): dietary supplement believed to repel fleas.
The Life Cycle of a Flea
There are four stages in the flea life cycle: adult, egg, larva and pupa. In and around the home, there are three area where fleas, at various stages of development, are likely to be: on the pet, in the yard and in the carpet, upholstery and drapery inside the home. No single product can kill fleas in all four stages of their life cycle in all the areas they live. It takes a program consisting of the right combination of products applied at exactly the right time to kill the key stages of the flea life cycle.
A Little More Info on Fleas
Oral flea treatments do not kill adult fleas present on the animal and don't begin to work until the flea has taken its blood meal. A common misconception is that fleas and other parasites aren't a problem in the winter. This is not the case. Use flea preventatives year round. Under the right conditions, such as a midwinter warm spell, fleas can survive and reproduce indoors. The onset of flea season is impossible to predict. Another important factor in flea control is double-treatment. You should always treat a flea problem twice in order to kill off any remaining pupa. Treat fleas once, then treat again seven to ten days later. This will help ensure that the pupa (who are nearly indestructible, even to flea-products) are also killed. Read labels carefully before using any flea product.
Litter
There Are Many Types of Cat Litters Available. Find the Type
That's Right for Your Household and Breathe Easier!
Traditional Clay Litter
Benefits: Economical, least costly per bag, 99 % dust free
Brands: Scamp, Pet's Pal, Glamour Kitty, Multicat, Tidy Cat
Clumping Clay Litter
Benefits: Scoop out clumps, no need to change entire litter box at once, reduces odors as it absorbs as it clumps
Brands: Pestell Easy Clean, Pestell Easy Clean with Baking Soda, Scamp Scoopable, Cat Attract, Tidy Cat Scoop
Scented Litters
Benefits: Adds pleasant odor to further reduce urine odors
Brands: Rose Scented Glamour Kitty, Pestell Easy Clean with Baking Soda, Pestell Northern Comfort
Non-Clay Clumping Litter
Benefits: Waste clumps are flushable, less dust than clay, environmentally friendly
Brands: Cobby Cat Corn Cob Litter, Heartland Wheat Litter, Katgo Cedarized Litter, World's Best, Our Cat's Choice, Swheat Scoop, Feline Fresh Scoopable
Pelleted Litters
Benefits: High absorbency, biodegradable & environmentally friendly
Brands: Feline Fresh, Yesterday's News
Cat Owners: Does Your Litter Box Stink?
Here are some tips to keep those litter box odors in control:
1) Use high quality cat litter such as Pestell Easy Clean clumping litter or Clear Choice Silica litter. Both trap odors without contaminating the whole litter box.
2) Get a covered litter box. Covered litter boxes contain odors and have a filter to clean the air coming out of them. They also reduce the amount of litter scattered from the box for a cleaner litter box area.
3) Feed a super premium cat food such as Eagle, Innova or California Natural. They are more digestible to your cat so there is less waste coming out! Eagle contains yucca, a natural urine odor reducing ingredient.
Tips for Guiding Your Cat to the Litter Box
Follow a few basic principles to train your new kitten to use the box from the get-go!
1) Confine the kitten for the first week to a small room when you're not around to supervise. Provide a litter box, bedding, food and water (away from litter box).
2) Choose a private, quiet location as the box's permanent location.
3) Select a low-sided litter box the kitten can easily climb into and switch to a larger box as the kitten grows.
4) Be consistent with the litter. Switching litter can throw off a kitten's training. Mix and switch gradually if you need to before the kitten is using the litter box consistently.
5) Clean the box daily. Some cats will not use a litter box if there is any waste odor. However, with a very young kitten it's good to leave a little of the odor to help draw it back to the box.
6) If the kitten goes outside the box, clean the area thoroughly with a cleanser designed to remove organic wastes like Nature's Miracle to remove the temptation for the kitten to use that spot again. After cleaning the spot, move the kitten's food and water bowl to it or cover it with a piece of furniture to discourage further.
7) Avoid harsh disinfection and deodorizers that may disturb the cat's sensitive nose. If you prefer to use a deodorizer, get the cat used to it slowly so it doesn't begin avoiding the box.
8) If your cat urinates outside the box it may indicate a urinary tract problem. If your cat exhibits any irritation or straining while urinating see your vet immediately. Left untreated, FUS can be fatal. Prevent FUS with a low-magnesium, low-ash diet and always provide plenty of fresh water.
Tips for Switching Litter
Some cats will take to new litter right away, so long as it is placed in the same location as their old litter. Obviously, this is the easiest method of switching litter. If your cat has difficulty using the new litter, try one of two approaches. First, try mixing the two litters slowly over time, much as you would mix old and new pet food (see above). Another method involves setting up two litter boxes, one with the new, one with the old. Eventually, your cat may warm up to the new litter, if he or she is exposed to it long enough through the two boxes approach.
Hot Cars
Leaving Your Pet in a Hot Car Can be a Dangerous Mistake
On a warm day, the temperature in a parked car can reach 160 degrees in a matter of minutes, even with partially opened windows. With only hot air to breathe, your pet can quickly suffer brain damage or die from heatstroke.
Signs of Heat Stress:
Heavy panting, glazed eyes, rapid pulse, dizziness, vomiting, deep red or purple tongue
If your pet gets overheated, you must lower his body temperature immediately!
Follow these tips to cool your pet down:
1) Get him in the shade and apply cool (not cold) water all over his body.
2) Apply ice packs or cold towels ONLY to head, neck and chest.
3) Let him drink small amounts of cool water, or lick ice cubes or, in an emergency, lick ice cream.
4) Get your pet to a veterinarian right away-- it could save his life.
REMEMBER: On hot days, your pet is safer at home!
Pet Safe Plants
Un-Safe (Toxic) Plants:
Acorns, Aloe, Amaryllis, Angel Trumpet, Azalea, Baby's Breath, Baneberry, Bird of Paradise, Bittersweet, Black Locust, Bleeding Heart, Bloodroot, Buckeye, Buttercup, Cactus, Caladium, Carnation, Castor Bean, Christmas Rose, Clematus, Corn Plant, Cowbane, Crocus, Crown of Thorns, Daffodil, Daisy, Daphne, Delphinium, Dieffenbachia, Dogbane, Dracaena,, Dumbcane, Elephant Ear, Eucalyptus, False Parsley, Four O'Clock, Geranium, Gladiolus, Goldenrod, Heather, Hellebore, Hemlock, Hibiscus, Holly, Hyacinth, Hydragea, Indian Corn, Indian Poke, Ink Berry, Iris, Jack in the Pulpit, Jade Plant, Java Bean, Jequirity Bean, Jerusalem Cherry, Jessamine, Jonquil, Juniper, Larkspur, Lilies, Lily of the Valley, Marijuana, May Apple, Mistletoe, Monk's Hood, Morning Glory, Mother-in-Law, Mushrooms, Narcissus, Nightshade, Oleander, Onion, Peony, Philodendron, Poinsettia, Poison Ivy, Poison Oak. Poison Sumac, Pokeweed, Pothos, Primrose, Privet, Queen Anne's Lace, Rhododendron, Rosary Pea, Rubber Plant, Schefflera, Skunk Cabbage, Snow on the Mountain, Spurge, Tobacco, Tulip, Virginia Creeper, Wandering Jew, Wisteria, Wolfsbane, Yew, and Many types of Ivies, Mums and Seeds (fruit).
Safe (Non-Toxic) Plants:
African Violet, Air Fern, Aluminum Plant, Aster, Baby Tears, Barberry Bush, Bayberry, Beauty Bush, Begonia, Blood Leaf, Boston Fern, Bridal Veil, Bromeliad, Burro Tail, Christmas Cactus, Coral Bell, Dahlia, Dandelion, Dogwood, False Aralia, Fig Leaf Palm, Fuchsia, Gardenia, Gloxinia, Golden Sedium, Honeysuckle, Hoya, Impatiens, Inch Plant, Kalanchoe, Lilac, Lipstick Plant, Mountain Ash, Nasturtium, Norfolk Pine, Peperomia, Petunia, Piggyback, Ponytail, Prayer Plant, Purple Passion, Pussy Willow, Snake Plant, Snow Berry, Spider Plant, Spider Aralia, Swedish Ivy, Umbrella Tree, Zebra Plant, Zinnia.